I have one device (Yongnuo) that works ok.
In terms of remote video, there are several devices that provide remote video and shutter release, but I'm not aware of any that have intervalometer support. Using an Arduino would be simple to do if you aren't afraid of the programming. I'm not sure however, they have multiple time tracks. In terms of shipping products if you don't want to do the programming there a few other intervalometer products that are a step up from the cheap ones on ebay (mostly concentrating on addition trigger support for things like water drop photography): Triggertrap has been mentioned, but unfortunately for the non-iphone version (the V1 Adruino) version, they just had yet another delay due to a supplier delivering a plastic casing where most of them were unusable.
For my steampunk setup, I'm just using a rod right now: In the normal setups, you have a geared track around the zoom/focus rings, and something to turn it.
BACKYARDEOS PENTAX MOVIE
In terms of focusing, you might be able to use a follow focus setup similar to what they use for movie making to focus the camera in manual focus mode, and use a separate follow focus for zooming then lens. All you will be able to do is run the camera in bulb mode, and use an intervalometer to control the shutter speed. Note, since Olympus does not offer true tether support, you will not be able to change aperture, ISO, etc. see the backyardeos application as an example of what I use with my canon plugged in, it has all the control and focusing aids needed. Painful to do manually and not much better with a wired/wireless intervalometer unless you can program 5 different sequences not to mention the risk of moving the tracking/focusing slightly every time you mess with the control. Basically you take multiple photos at various shutter speeds from seconds to minutes. I was also hoping for a live view also to help get proper focusing, and setting the shot sequences. I want to tether to have my imaging, focusing and telescope control from the laptop so I don't have to man handle the sensitive setup. Maybe it is possible to get backyardeos to play a wav instead of triggering via the USB? You would have to check with the developer. It takes audio signals from an iOS devices headphone jack and converts it to a contact closure for focus and another for shutter. The interface dongle from trigger trap may be a starting point. On the olympus side of things it appears that the specific set of functionality you desire hasn't been designed into the camera, so you'll either have to live with a set of kludged solutions for each aspect of the "package" of actions, or stick with a Canon DSLR. It was a relatively simple matter for s/w developers to reverse engineer an existing protocol to get things going. IIRC I could do this with my 30d, albeit not with live view & a custom designed application for the very specific needs of the astrophotographer. The Canon cameras benefit from canon designing remote control functionality into them very early on. This is just not practical when BYE/BYE is still a weekend/weeknight gig.At this early stage of the camera's life cycle you'll be hard pressed to find a convenient all in one solution. I have decided to no longer communicate the plans for big features like this because then I'm on the hook to deliver (or explain why it was not delivered). I failed in my first implementation and I had to go back to the drawing board (this is a no compromise feature, it needs to work the first time and all the time). Ever since then I get asked and asked again when it will be ready. My biggest regret was to start communicating my plans for auto-focusing a few years back. I just wish Guylain could keep us informed of his progress, although I know some people would not understand what is going on, and it would only start a thread of asking irrelevant questions and take away from Guylain's work time. then you have the BYE, ASCOM, and Canon commands to contend with. WOW its mind blowing just to think of how much work is involved. Some of the camera specs called for in the equations are hard to find for DSLR cameras, so a data base of these constants would have to be compiled, or if entered by the user, then saved to a file.Ī artificial star of some sort would almost have to be used during the day just to get it close. I can only start to comprehend what needs to be done when you have multiple cameras and scope combinations. now I understand the complexities of the operation.
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